Category Archives: Countries

The Wedding That Wasn’t Supposed to Wait

by Reem Jazem

In 2014, my biggest concern was when to get married.

I was engaged in August, and my fiancé and I planned to have our wedding in May 2015. I wanted March instead. We were both born in March, and three had always been my lucky number, so a March wedding seemed almost too perfect to give up.

Unfortunately, he was going to spend three months filming a television series, so May won.

I was not planning a big wedding. I wanted something simple so that we could spend more of the money on our honeymoon. We were choosing between Turkey and Socotra Island, and my friends and I spent our time looking for a dress, a wedding hall, invitation cards, and all the other things that suddenly become extremely important when you are a bride.

Life was ordinary.

That is probably the best way to describe it.

We had plans. We had dates. We made decisions based on what would happen next month, or next summer, or after the wedding. We assumed that tomorrow would be there when we reached it.

I had never thought much about how extraordinary that was.

In Yemen, preparing for a wedding is not exactly a small task. Traditionally, the groom provides the agreed dowry, while the bride and her family carry many of the wedding expenses. The bride is also expected to prepare new clothes and gold jewelry for herself.

Men, I often thought, were lucky.

They put on a suit and show up.

The bride, meanwhile, could spend months preparing for a single day.

At the time, these were the problems occupying my mind.

Then came March.

Because we could no longer have our wedding that month, I decided that at least we could celebrate our birthdays together. On March 17, my colleagues surprised me with a birthday party at work. I remember that day clearly. Even my serious, strict manager danced Lahji.

At some point that day, I told my fiancé that I had a strange feeling that it would be my last birthday.

I had no reason to say it.

A week later, on March 26, I was at home chatting with friends on WhatsApp while my parents watched television.

Then came the explosion.

It was so loud that the house shook.

My father changed the television channel, and the news announced the beginning of the Saudi-led military intervention in Yemen against the Houthis.

Until that moment, the future had been something I could schedule.

After that night, it became something I could only wait for.

The airports closed. Traveling became difficult. Businesses and projects stopped. Buildings were damaged and people were killed. Things that had once been simple—getting somewhere, buying something, planning a trip, making a living—suddenly required calculations, luck, and sometimes could not be done at all.

We postponed everything.

The wedding. The honeymoon. The plans that depended on a life returning to normal.

We assumed the war would end.

So we waited.

Then we realized that waiting could not last forever.

The wedding finally took place in October.

The war did not.

By then, we had learned something that people living through ordinary times rarely have to learn: life does not always wait for the world to become normal again.

Sometimes you postpone your plans for a few months, expecting the interruption to end.

And then the interruption becomes the landscape of your life.

The war continued far beyond October, far beyond what we had imagined, and eventually far beyond what we could have imagined in our worst nightmares.

Looking back, I think about that girl who was worried about whether she would get married in March or May.

She thought she was choosing a date.

She did not know that history was choosing one for her.

A Visit to Yemen in 1884: Part 1

Most scholars who have read about the many travelers to Yemen in the past are well aware of the Italian Renzo Manzoni, whose 1884 El Yemen records his visit to Ottoman Yemen in 1877-1878. This travel account has even been translated into Arabic. A little more than a decade later, in 1891, another Italian visited Yemen after a journey that took him through Tunis and Egypt. His name is G. B. Rossi and his Nei Paesi d’Islam was published in 1897 with some 70 drawings. It is a popular account, drawing on earlier works of Yemen along with his own personal anecdotes about his visit, which he notes was at a time when there was tension between the Ottomans and the Imam. For a flavor of his writing, consider the following near the start of his discussion on Yemen:

Rossi provides a map about his journey:

Among other items is a list of the altitudes of Yemen’s main towns at the time.

What makes this text worth looking at is the number of illustrations. I attach one below and will follow up with more posts of the illustrations.

To be continued…

Persia Once More

This comment could be from a current political figure about the ongoing conflict in the Middle East, but it was actually written by the British diplomat Lord Curzon in September, 1919, only a few months after the signing of the Treaty of Versailles which officially ended World War I. His reference to Asia was really about the future of Persia, where he had traveled extensively in 1889-1890.

His two-volume Persia and the Persian Question (1892) reveals his fascination for Persia, ruled at that time by the Qajar Shah Nasir al-Din. Britain held imperial control over India, then Persia’s neighbor, but Curzon thought strategically about a future alliance with the Shah. As he wrote near the end of his first volume:

I doubt that any of the war planners in Israel or the U.S. read anything by Lord Curzon, who died a century ago, before launching the war/non-war on Iran four weeks ago.  Some may not have been aware that Persia is in fact Iran. Curzon was Orientalist to the core, admiring the quaint cultural aspects he saw from his carriage ride, but disdainful of the people he actually met. He can be forgiven for not realizing a future in which oil overturned the fate of the entire region, but at least he warned about the ability of Persian soldiers. 

            At the dinner in London celebrating the treaty, Curzon added his praise:

“I have always been a sincere and outspoken friend of Persian nationality. I regard Persia as a country with a great history and a romantic past, one of the few surviving independent Muhammaden Stares of the world, which it is of vital interest not only to ourselves, but to Asia to keep alive. I know that country and the people to be possessed of marked individuality and national spirit, too ardent to be suppressed, too valuable to be submerged. Was it not natural that Persia, seeking to establish and stabilize her future, should turn to us?”

The treaty did not last long, in part because the Persian Cossacks that maintained the Shah had Russian officers. In 2021 the Shah, out of fear of Russia, made an agreement with the new Soviet Communist government. Curzon bemoaned the fact that Persia was now “marching of its own accord.”

There is a much used, and often abused, notion that history repeats itself. Given the incessant wars in the area now called the Middle East and previously hoped to be a Holy Land, war has followed war after war after war. Today it is indeed Persia once more. And Persia, with a resilient array of armed forces, is marching of its own accord.

[Quotations from Lawrence John Dundas Zetland, The Life of Lord Curzon. London: Ernest Benn Ltd, 1928.

Palestine in 2019

Over the years many popular magazines have published articles by visitors to Palestine. In a 1919 issue of the periodical The Century there was an article by Joseph Koven, an American Jewish author who visited Palestine. His article is very Orientalist, describing the local Arabs as dressed in rags and primitive. I cannot recommend reading the actual article, but there are several photographs and I attach two of those here.