Sun 1 Jul 2007
Barbie, the Bikini, and the Burqa
Posted by Ronald Lukens-Bull under Anthropology/Sociology , Gender and Sexuality , Islamophobia
My wife returned from an afternoon at the local waterpark. There our kids met some of their best friends. Their father, knowing a bit about what I do, asked my wife why the Muslim women present at the park were bathing fully clothed. My wife simply said that their faith motivated them to not display their body in public. To which, he retorted, “they have nothing to be proud of.” Indeed several of the women were plumper than they may have been as younger women. This story left me shaking my head. Disregarding the logical problem of concluding that only “hotties” should be modest, I was struck by the obvious implications that somehow that by swimming full clothed suggested that they were more oppressed than the women frolicking in bikinis. I am not arguing that there is no gender oppression in Muslim societies, but I will argue that it only takes a different form of the oppression facing Western women. In either Muslim societies or Western societies, the degree to which women are oppressed depends on the specific society and even on the specific women. However, we must ask is whether the Burqa is any more oppressive than Barbie and the Bikini.
The Burqa
The Burqa is properly called Hijab and the Burqa per se, in Afghani not pan-Islamic (but I cannot work out the alliterations on the Western side of the equation). Islamic law requires both men and women to cover their aurat, which can be define as those areas which are provocative to the opposite sex. Jabar Adlan, a Javanese alim argued that the concept of aurat was culturally bound and how the need for women to cover their head is Arabic culture. For men, the aurat is from just above the navel to just below the knees and hence is all that must be covered for prayers. However, it is better to use long sleeved shirts, long pants or a sarong (some would argue a sarong is better because it does not clearly define the form of the legs and buttocks), and a head covering. If one uses these in everyday life it is better still. As for a woman’s aurat, this is in-part culturally defined. Clearly, a woman’s aurat would minimially include the same areas as a mans but would also include her breasts. More than that is open for interpretation, Jabar argued. In practice, the aurat for women generally extends down to the ankle and to the wrists. However, he argued, that because Javanese men are not aroused by hair, necks, or ears, the hijab is not necessary in Java.
Barbie
The constant demand on American women to be perfect and to be “on-display” is just as much gender based oppression as any faced by women in Muslim cultures. And even though Barbie has lost her physically impossible figure, she still portrays a nearly impossible standard of female physical beauty. The angst with which many American women face “swimsuit” seasons speaks to this. It also it speaks to the idea that women can and should display as much of their body as possible. For whose benefit? Why is this desirable? Although there may be swimsuits which hide flaws, the idea of swimming fully clothed is ludicrous for the mainstream American women. This image of female physical perfection drives many multi-billion dollar industries: swimwear, diet, cosmetics, apparel, jewelry (costume and otherwise). A widespread rejection of these values would cause society backlash for no other reason than its economic affect. One might argue that the psychological pressure to physical perfection fails to compare to the oppression faced by Muslim women. I find such an argument empty, but let’s say that we grant that point. What about the physical impact of Barbie and the Bikini — eating disorders which affect between 5 and 10 percent of American women, according to The National Institute of Mental Health.
Conclusion
To see the gender oppression in someone else’s culture while being blissfully blind to it in your own is the worst sort of ethnocentrism. It is not merely judging another culture by the standards of your own, but judging another culture by standards which even your own fails to meet. Barbie, the Bikini, and the Burqa each represent the power of a patriarchal society to control women’s bodies. Is one better or worse than the other? I leave that to philosophers. For me, oppression is oppression.
July 1st, 2007 at 9:32 pm
Good post, thank you for sharing. Re. such cross-cultural comparisons of patriarchal control of the female body, Fatima Mernissi has some fascinating, if preliminary, insights along these same lines in her Scheherazade Goes West.
July 2nd, 2007 at 2:25 am
Well, I find the “Barbie-bikini standard” to be oppressive, and the onlooker’s comment to be not just rude, but aesthetically self-centered. I don’t think other people’s aesthetics should get in the way of my enjoyment of the beach. So as far as that point goes, I am with you all the way. But I don’t have to wear a bikini. It’s a choice I get to make as a private individual.
Shapeless clothing can be quite a relief to wear regardless of cultural standards or body type. But if the temperature is high, I personally would prefer not to wear encompassing, dark-hued garments that absorb heat and contribute to dehydration, such as a burqa, hijab, et cetera. If I must cross a busy street or negotiate uneven ground, or work in a factory with machinery, or cook large pots of boiling or frying food, I would prefer to be able to utilize my eyesight to the fullest–and avoid the hazards of flowing garments in the case of machinery and fires. If I am supervising children, I would like to be able to watch them in a hazardous world and be able to run to them (or after them) if there is need.
If it is men’s lustful or judgmental gazes that are the problem, maybe the men should wear blinders instead. But I’m not actually advocating that–it just transfers a burden externally which should be resolved inwardly. I really think that virtue lives amidst temptation, and temptation is frequently the object of inappropriate desire or sin rather than its cause.
July 2nd, 2007 at 2:43 am
The “I have a choice” argument is one that I hear from my students frequently. In Indonesia, at least, every woman who wears hijab does it by choice. In fact, sometimes they face harrassement for friends and family for acting like “little Arabs.”
If you truly have the choice in what you wear to the beach, try not wearing it. Try wearing 1930s beachwear and see how free you are to choose. The fact of the matter, is that both Islamic societies and Western define what counts as an appropriate and aesthetically pleasing woman. To go against this has consquences.
I am not being an apologist for hijab. I am just pointing out that American women are just as subject to doing “what men expect of them” in what they do with their bodies as women in Muslim societies.
July 2nd, 2007 at 2:25 pm
Dear Mr. Lukens-Bull,
You responded to the choice question, of which we are at substantial agreement. If a devout woman wishes to signal devotion with her dress, then indeed their should be no objection. However, you did not respond to the utility question (or the moral one).
I think the utility question is of more importance, from beachwear to hijab. The point of choice there is that one should be able to choose an appropriate garment for a task, which is not condoned or allowed by some regimes.
But basically it sounds like we are in the same camp, and I enjoyed this article very much.
July 2nd, 2007 at 2:35 pm
Ms. Boyd,
Even when in the same camp, debate can be very invigorating and I have enjoyed this very much.
As for the utility question, as an anthropologist, I think that it must be addressed from the point of view of those who wear each garment. Since I am not a woman, I cannot speak to the utility of either the bikini or the hijab. Only someone who wears the hijab can really speak to whether or not it restricts them in utilitarian ways. We also need to consider that not hijab is not necessarily dark, nor does it necessarily obstruct vison, nor does it necessarily hinder movement.
As for moral questions, as stated in my original post, I leave those to philosphers. It is beyond the scope of my training and discipline to make moral judgments. Not that being an anthropologist restricts me from making them, but neither does it give me any basis for doing so.
July 2nd, 2007 at 11:10 pm
Dear Mr. Lukens-Bull,
Yes, I have also been enjoying this, and also reflecting upon certain non-utilitarian Western fashions beyond the precariously positioned swimsuit, such as the 4-inch stiletto heels I might wear and the bustles of the 19th century.
Always good to confront one’s positions and preconceptions. Thank you.
July 5th, 2007 at 8:36 pm
Hi Mr. Lukens-Bull
I appreciate so much what i have read here. I am an African American Muslim woman who wears the hijab by choice. Every women I know who wears it does so by choice, so thank you so much for understanding that. I (and my Muslim sisters) are the recipients of so much hate nowadays and it is refreshing to stumble upon this dialogue. In fact, the hijab can be any color and style as long as it covers adequately. I swim on a regular basis in public areas. I wear an Islamic swimsuit that covers to my ankles and wrists, and has a loose skirt-like piece to hide my shape. It also has a scarf. I recieve many stares, especially recently at the hotel in Vegas, but the initial shock wears off when other realize i am just another ex-competitive swimmer having some fun in the sun too. It is so interesting how we are seen as oppressed by many, but we feel so liberated and free to be plump and fluffy underneath our clothing if we choose because we are not slaves to a body type that many women struggle to achieve. Also, when it is hot outside, i wear cottony fabrics more and linens and lighter colors. the ottest spot on my body when it is hot outside is actually my cheeks because they get direct sunlight. Believe it or not, we actually do feel the breeze under our scarves.
Anyway, thanks so much for being you and doing you online.
Jameelah
July 5th, 2007 at 8:36 pm
Hi Mr. Lukens-Bull
I appreciate so much what i have read here. I am an African American Muslim woman who wears the hijab by choice. Every women I know who wears it does so by choice, so thank you so much for understanding that. I (and my Muslim sisters) are the recipients of so much hate nowadays and it is refreshing to stumble upon this dialogue. In fact, the hijab can be any color and style as long as it covers adequately. I swim on a regular basis in public areas. I wear an Islamic swimsuit that covers to my ankles and wrists, and has a loose skirt-like piece to hide my shape. It also has a scarf. I recieve many stares, especially recently at the hotel in Vegas, but the initial shock wears off when other realize i am just another ex-competitive swimmer having some fun in the sun too. It is so interesting how we are seen as oppressed by many, but we feel so liberated and free to be plump and fluffy underneath our clothing if we choose because we are not slaves to a body type that many women struggle to achieve. Also, when it is hot outside, i wear cottony fabrics more and linens and lighter colors. the ottest spot on my body when it is hot outside is actually my cheeks because they get direct sunlight. Believe it or not, we actually do feel the breeze under our scarves.
Anyway, thanks so much for being you and doing you online.
November 29th, 2009 at 4:39 pm
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